Frequently Asked Questions

A water softener removes calcium and magnesium minerals from your water supply through an ion exchange process. San Antonio has notoriously hard water some of the hardest in Texas which causes scale buildup in pipes, water heaters, and appliances. Hard water shortens the life of water heaters, clogs showerheads, and leaves residue on dishes and fixtures. If you're in the San Antonio area, a water softener is almost always worth the investment. It protects your plumbing system and reduces soap and detergent usage over time.

Reverse osmosis (RO) is a water filtration process that forces water through a semi-permeable membrane, removing dissolved solids, contaminants, chlorine, heavy metals, and many other impurities. The result is clean, great-tasting drinking water at your tap. An RO system is typically installed under the kitchen sink and connects to a dedicated faucet. It's one of the most effective point-of-use filtration methods available for residential use.

San Antonio's water comes primarily from the Edwards Aquifer and is treated by SAWS (San Antonio Water System). Municipal water typically contains chlorine or chloramine (used for disinfection), fluoride, dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium (hardness), and trace levels of various compounds. You can review SAWS's annual water quality report for specific readings. If you have concerns about taste, odor, or specific contaminants, a water test and a point-of-use filtration system can give you confidence in what you're drinking.

The right approach depends on what you want to address. For hard water and scale buildup, a whole-home water softener is the most effective solution. For taste and drinking water quality, an under-sink reverse osmosis system is hard to beat. For chlorine taste and odor throughout the home, a whole-house carbon filter can help. Many San Antonio homeowners benefit from combining a softener with an RO system one handles the hardness, the other handles drinking water purity. We can help you evaluate what makes sense for your home.

Tank water heaters benefit from an annual flush to remove sediment that accumulates at the bottom of the tank. Sediment insulates the water from the heating element, causes rumbling noises, and shortens the heater's life. You should also test the temperature and pressure relief (T&P) valve annually it's a critical safety device. Anode rod inspection every 3-5 years helps prevent tank corrosion. San Antonio's hard water accelerates sediment buildup, making annual maintenance especially important here.

Both have real advantages. Conventional tank heaters cost less upfront and are simpler to install, but they store and continuously reheat water even when you're not using it. Tankless systems heat water on demand, have a longer lifespan (20+ years vs. 8-12), and can significantly reduce energy costs but they cost more upfront and may require a gas line upgrade. For most San Antonio homes, tankless makes financial sense over a 10-year horizon, especially with our hard water, which benefits from a softener paired with a tankless unit.

That rotten egg smell is hydrogen sulfide gas, and it usually comes from one of two sources: sulfur bacteria reacting with the magnesium anode rod inside your water heater, or naturally occurring sulfur in your water supply. If the smell is only present in hot water, the water heater is almost always the source. Replacing the magnesium anode rod with an aluminum/zinc one often resolves it. If the smell is in both hot and cold water, you may have a water quality issue that a filtration system can address.

Running out of hot water quickly usually points to one of several issues: heavy sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank is reducing effective capacity, the tank size is undersized for your household, a heating element has failed (electric heaters), or the thermostat is set too low. A faulty dip tube which channels cold water to the bottom of the tank can also cause cold and hot water to mix at the top. We can diagnose the specific cause and advise whether a repair or replacement makes more sense for your situation.

Locate and close your main water shutoff valve immediately typically near the water meter or where the main line enters the house. Once the water is off, open a faucet to relieve pressure remaining in the line. Move any valuables or electronics away from the water. Then call O5 Plumbing. Don't try to patch a burst pipe with tape or clamps as a permanent fix it won't hold. Know where your shutoff valve is before an emergency happens so you can act fast.

Turn off the cold water supply to the water heater first there's typically a shutoff valve on the cold water inlet line at the top. If the leak is significant or you can't isolate it, shut off the main water supply. For a gas water heater, turn the gas valve to the "pilot" position. Call us to assess the situation. A leak from the tank itself usually means the unit needs replacement. A leak from a fitting or valve may be repairable. Don't let a leaking heater sit water damage accumulates fast.

Ghost flushing happens when water slowly leaks from the tank into the bowl, causing the fill valve to cycle to top the tank off. The most common cause is a worn or warped flapper that no longer seals properly. A food dye test can confirm it put a few drops of food coloring in the tank, wait 15 minutes without flushing, and check the bowl. If you see color, water is leaking through the flapper. This is a simple and inexpensive fix, but left alone it wastes hundreds of gallons per month.

Low water pressure throughout the home usually points to a failing pressure regulator (PRV), a partially closed main shutoff valve, or a leak somewhere in the supply system. If it's isolated to one fixture, the cause is more likely a clogged aerator or showerhead from mineral buildup easy to clean. If it's throughout the house and has developed gradually, mineral scale buildup inside the pipes could be reducing flow. San Antonio's hard water makes this more common than in softer-water cities.

A dripping faucet is almost always caused by worn internal components typically a deteriorated washer, O-ring, or cartridge depending on the faucet type. These parts seal the water flow when the handle is closed. Over time, the constant pressure wears them down. A faucet dripping once per second wastes around 3,000 gallons of water per year. It's an inexpensive fix when addressed promptly, but ignoring it accelerates wear on the valve seat, eventually requiring a more costly repair.

Pipe noises vary by type. A loud bang when you shut off a faucet ("water hammer") is caused by water pressure suddenly stopping a water hammer arrestor resolves this. Creaking or ticking sounds are typically hot water pipes expanding and contracting against framing as they heat and cool. Rattling pipes are often inadequately secured. A high-pitched whine usually indicates a worn washer or valve under pressure. None of these are immediately dangerous, but they're worth addressing before they cause bigger problems.

Slow drains are caused by a buildup of soap scum, hair, grease, mineral scale, or bacteria along the inner pipe walls. In bathrooms, hair and soap combine into a sticky mass. In kitchens, cooking grease is the primary culprit it clings to pipe walls and hardens over time. Avoid chemical drain cleaners, which damage pipes without fully clearing the blockage. A professional drain cleaning removes the obstruction completely and lets us diagnose whether a deeper issue exists in the line.

No. Chemical drain cleaners are corrosive and damage your pipes with repeated use. They eat through metal pipe walls, degrade PVC fittings and joints, and can crack older porcelain fixtures. They also rarely fully clear a blockage they punch a temporary hole through it, so the clog returns quickly. A licensed plumber uses mechanical methods that clear the full obstruction without harming your plumbing. The short-term cost of a professional cleaning is far less than replacing corroded pipe down the road.

The disposal handles soft food scraps well fruit pieces, cooked vegetables, small amounts of food residue. What to avoid: fats, oils, and grease (they solidify in the pipe downstream), coffee grounds, egg shells, fibrous vegetables like celery or corn husks, starchy foods like pasta or rice that expand in water, and anything hard like bones or fruit pits. Run cold water before, during, and after use. When in doubt, the trash is the safer option.

Start with a simple meter test. Turn off everything that uses water in your home, then watch the meter for a few minutes. If it's still moving, water is leaving the system somewhere. Check toilets first a running toilet is the most common cause of unexplained high bills. Also check under sinks and around the base of the water heater. If you can't find an obvious source, there may be a hidden slab leak or underground supply line leak. Call us we can locate it.

Water softeners regenerate a process where they flush accumulated minerals and recharge the resin with salt typically during off-peak hours set during installation. If your softener is making noise during the day, it may be set to regenerate at the wrong time, or it may be regenerating too frequently due to a programming issue or a valve problem. Some noise during regeneration is normal; loud or continuous noise outside regeneration cycles suggests a mechanical issue worth having inspected.

A standard home inspection covers plumbing basics, but it doesn't catch everything. We recommend a dedicated plumbing inspection before buying, especially for homes over 20 years old. This includes a sewer line camera inspection to check for root intrusion, cracks, or deterioration issues the home inspector won't find. We also check water pressure, the water heater condition, visible pipe material (galvanized vs. copper vs. PEX), and fixture function. Discovering a failing sewer line after closing is one of the most expensive surprises a new homeowner faces.